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Overlanders Tips: How to get your vehicle into the Wakhan Valley, Afghanistan (Ishkashim Border)

Do as I say, not as I do…

Its official, we F^&$ed it up. But in saying that nobody told us otherwise and previously people did not have this problem. So what went wrong? We picked up our Visa’s from the Khorog Consulate in Tajikistan and went on our merry way to the border at Ishkashim. At the border we were asked for our vehicle documents so we presented our V5 (British registration document known as a Tech-Passport elsewhere) to which the response was ‘Not that, the other one’. So what is the other one?

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Posted by  |  17/06/2013 | Categories: Overlanders Tips | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

South Russian Transit – Car dealers and Mini Mongolia

Russia: Bad police, bad drivers, bad service and bad food, right? Maybe these stereotypes were the reason Russia exceeded all our expectations. We had heard of Russian hospitality, but thought this would be limited to the rural areas of Siberia where there were sparser populations. We never expected our transit through southern Russia to be so warm and memorable.

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Posted by  |  13/06/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure | Tags: , , , , , | 3 Comments

Western Kazakhstan Transit | Star Trail Photography

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Wild-camping on the Desert Steppe

Three nights across the western Kazakh Steppe wild-camping in glorious weather allowed me the time to try out a few ND Grad filters and test out the long exposures required for star trail photography. Our transit to Uzbekistan was quicker than anticipated as we passed by hundreds of kilometres of nothing. We stopped briefly in Atyrau to get some cash and food taking the opportunity to register while there.

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Posted by  |  12/06/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure, Photography | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Georgia – The High Caucasus, Svaneti, Ushguli, Tbilisi and the Military Highway

It’s all about the mountains…

Before leaving the UK Georgia was assured to be a highlight of our trip on our way to Central Asia. I would spend hours pouring over maps of the Caucasus, working out possible routes, likely snow fall on mountain passes, places to visit etc etc. The whole region is also steeped in history as it forms a geographical bottleneck of the overland routes between the far east, middle east, Persia and Europe. For centuries the country was ruled by the Ottomans, Persians, Mongols and most recently the Russians as it provided a gateway (and control) for trade along the old silk road.

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Posted by  |  12/06/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Turkey – Ankara, Cappadocia and the Black Sea Coast

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After the craziness of Istanbul roads, we welcomed the relative order that seemed to ensue in the Turkish capital of Ankara. Although Istanbul is the culture centre of the country, Ankara is the administrative centre and so the place we needed to go for most of our Central Asian visas. After driving all day, through blazing sun and random snow, we eventually found the Ulasan Hotel where we were allowed to camp (tucked away out the back of course!). It is one of the only places that allows camping and is a good spot overlooking the lake.  Read the rest of this page »

Posted by  |  12/06/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Overlanders Tips: Getting your GBAO Permit in Dushanbe for $3

We had picked up our Tajikistan Visas in Ankara, Turkey back in March but still needed to get the GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province) permit for the Pamirs. Some consulates will not issue these whilst others and some tour agency’s can charge up to $150 just for the permit!

I got wind that it was possible to obtain this permit, direct, in Dushanbe for next to nothing.

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Posted by  |  22/05/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure, Overlanders Tips | Tags: , , , , , | 7 Comments

Sirocco Overland’s Online Photo Shop opens it’s doors.

Ushguli, High Caucasus

Ushguli, High Caucasus

After nearly 20 hours tied to the worlds worst internet connections spanning three cities here in Uzbekistan, I finally added a new page today. ‘Online Photo Shop | Buy us a Coffee’ which you can find in the main menu of the site.

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Posted by  |  18/05/2013 | Categories: Photography | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Overlanding Footwear – Meindl Desert Fox Boots Review

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Before our trip out here to Central Asia I started looking around for a new pair of boots that would be suited to drier, hotter climes and would give me more support over a pair of shoes. I am carrying my leather Raichle boots which are great when the weather is wet/cold/temperate but when things dry up and the mercury rises you need something else…

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Posted by  |  11/05/2013 | Categories: Gear Talk | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Turkey – From Europe to Asia Welcome to Istanbul

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After laid-back Bulgaria we crossed the (hectic) border into Turkey. It took us about two hours, the longest by far, due to confusion between the letter ‘I’ and the number ‘1’ – easily done I suppose, if it wasn’t typed on every document, not to mention the number plate. We were sent to an inspection hangar on the side of the crossing, ready (begrudgingly) to empty the Landrover and trailer. After almost 30 mins of waiting Griff enquired as to why we were there, to find that no-one knew why, and what’s more they were confused as to how we’d entered as we were not on the system. It eventually transpired the registration plate had been incorrectly entered, it was re-entered and we were finally allowed to legally enter the country. The chaos of the border was just the beginning!  Read the rest of this page »

Posted by  |  23/04/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , | 7 Comments

Southern Bulgaria – Rila, Pirin, the Rhodope Mountains & Dancing Bear Sanctuary

Bulgaria turned out to be all about the mountains…

Following our swift exit from Serbia the signs at the Bulgarian border control explained in great detail the uniforms of the ‘real’ police and that they only drove Opel Astra’s along with other details. A little daunting at first but we soon realised why these signs were in place as no less than 50km down the road we passed roadside stalls selling police and military uniforms! Read the rest of this page »

Posted by  |  23/04/2013 | Categories: Overland Adventure | Tags: , , , , , , , | 3 Comments